As I said, I made my last corset from custom corset generator and it fit for the style gown I made.  But it isn't right for this new gown.  I need to redraft the pattern, and make it a bit smaller, as I have lost a bit of weight.  (yah for me!!)  I had also cut off the bottom point on the last corset, as it was not needed for the last Italian gown.  This gown will need the proper underclothing and that means creating a new one.

So I went back to http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html to punch in a few different sizes and took the instructions to redraft the pattern.  A while back, I had found a bunch of white paper rolls at a local discount store for a steal at $.25 each and bought them out!  This is what I use for creating my paper patterns.  I drafted the pattern exactly as it stated this time except for one minor change.  I made it a front closing corset not a back closing one.  I find them much easier to get in and out of.  I don't have to be a contortionist to get into this one.  The new pattern looks much more like what I am looking for and should prove to fit better.

I went to my fabric stash and found my cotton duck (that's cotton canvas for those who don't know) and laid the pattern out.  I cut two layers of this for the interlining as I didn't want to use twill tape for the boning channels.  I'm also looking for more support and stiffness.  I sewed the boning channels right into the two layers.  The bones are inserted from the bottom, so I sewed the two pieces together along the top, very close to the edge.  I then pulled out my ruler and pencil and marked directly on the interlining where I want the boning channels to be.  Yes, you CAN mark on the interlining, it doesn't show anyway! Sewed the channels and it looked good.  One word of recommendation:  Use a different colored thread than your interlining so you can see where the channels are if you miss the pencil drawing.  Much easier than hunt and stuff. 

Pulled out my bones that I have on hand, and decided to use the white coated steel bones vs the spring steel, especially in the front.  I think they give more support and a flatter line.  Besides, they're cheaper.  I haven't gotten up the nerve to use cable ties, like I read elsewhere on the web.  I had purchased the bones at http://www.corsetmaking.com/.  I recommend them for anyone who is looking for boning.  The price is great and they ship fast.

So, I put the bones in and discover that I am short a few sizes that I need.  I measure what I need and place my order.  While looking at the site and placing my order, decide that I'll also order the lacing from them.  Kill two birds with one stone so to speak.  While waiting for my order to arrive, I move on to the outer and inner layer.

I go back to my fabric stash and find a nice white linen.  There wasn't enough for a chemise, but there is more than enough for the corset.  I lay the pattern, cut it out and lay it against the interlining.  Perfect!  Glad too, as I wasn't up for cutting it again.  Bones then arrive and I put the rest I need in corset.  But guess what?  I discovered I mis-measured some of the channels so I have to order again.  GRRRRR!  There is nothing worse than waiting when you should have had it right the first time.

When the final set of bones arrive, I move into overdrive.  I'm excited to get this corset finished and try it on.  When all the bones are in, I pin on the inner and outer layer and baste it all the way around.  Now, the pattern online calls for using ribbon as the binding.  I didn't want ribbon on my corset.  Besides, no one sees it but me.  I also don't like working with ribbon as a binding, so I used double wide white bias tape.  I find I can get it to move the way I like.  I pinned it on.  Most people will stitch one side and hand finish the other.  But I've never been accused of being like most people, so I did it my way.  I pinned it on and top stitched it completely through all layers making sure to catch both sides of the tape.  One word of caution, always make your boning channels shorter than you think, as breaking a needle on a bone is a pain and makes a big mess. 

Ok, so the binding is on, tigher than if I had hand stitched it and it looks great.  Now it's time to move on to the grommets.  I personally like grommets, as I haven't gotten the hang of hand binding eyelets.  I mark along the side edges where I want the grommets to go.  They are about 1 - 1 1/2 inch apart.  I put in the grommets and it looks wonderful!  I have a professional grommet setter bought off Ebay last year and highly recommend it for anyone who has ever had problems with hand held grommet setters, or the pound with a hammer type.  These set flush and don't rip out, not to mention I can get through all layers without ripping my fabric. 

Insert the lacing and try it on.  Talk about cleavage!  But it fits better than the last one and looks much smoother.  It gives the nice straight line I'm looking for with this gown, and the cleavage won't be a problem, as it won't all show, but will give the illusion of it.   On to the farthinggale.